IrfanView is the best daily-use image viewer, period.
OK, maybe not for everyone. But for a power-user, that statement holds true. It’s the best general-purpose image editor I have ever used since a long time (2004), and it managed to keep that title for all these years in the midst of so many new Windows releases. It supports all the Windows versions from the ancient Windows 9.x to Windows 8. It is extremely snappy and unbelievably lightweight, with an install size of just about 2 MB (12 MB if all plugins are installed).
A Heads up: IrfanView looks old-school. It doesn’t conform too well to the latest GUI eye-candy standards (to keep compatibility with older Windows versions, I guess). The window border inherits the Windows theme, but the toolbar has always been pretty basic, with just bitmap skinning. If you’re just out for an image viewer which can browse through folders and do slideshows, then there are much prettier alternatives. I for one love Picasa’s image viewer.
As a Viewer
IrfanView is a very capable image viewer if you’re looking for a no-nonsense experience. It supports everything you would expect in a good image viewer, like browsing through folders, zooming in and out and viewing slideshows. But in addition to that, it also supports a lot of file formats for viewing and saving. Animated GIFs are supported too, and my most favourite: PSD files! You can’t edit PSD files but you can view them just fine.
As an Editor
Let’s be clear on one thing: IrfanView isn’t Photoshop. It doesn’t do layers or layer effects, it has very limited support for transparency when editing images, it doesn’t have brushes, a Pen tool or a Clone tool. But for everything else, there’s nothing better. You can:
Crop and auto-crop images
Resize/resample images, set their DPI
Do basic drawing (hit F12 and you’ll see)
Change the color depth
Cut/Copy/Paste rectangular parts of images using the selection tool with pixel-precision
Add text and watermarks
Create Panorama images (no intelligent stitching though)
Capture the screen (full screen/client area, include/exclude mouse cursor, open in editor/save to file, custom hotkey, timed auto-save)
Do color corrections (RGB, Brightness, Contrast, Gamma, Saturation)
Switch RGB channels
Save to many output formats and control their settings
And God bless Irfan Skiljan, Batch Conversion with a bunch of options!
And these are just the features that I use and like. It’s also capable of some other crazy stuff like creating standalone slideshows and screensavers of those slideshows with an option of attaching mp3 files, extract icons from EXEs and DLLs, and much more.
It also comes with a Thumbnails application which is used to browse the supported file formats as thumbnails (I never use it though).
A few tips
If I’ve managed to convince you to give IrfanView a shot, then I’m sure you’re heading to the website right now
I suggest that you download the the plugins pack too, especially if you’re a power user. You never know when you might need them. With the plugins installed, the install size is only about 12 MB, so no loss there.
After you install it, be sure to go through the settings. You’ll want to tweak some of them to make IView your own. BTW did you know IrfanView was designed also to be used as a very comprehensive command-line tool? I’ll say it again. IrfanView is the best daily-use image viewer out there. Period.
Howdy, folks! It’s been a while since my last post. Well, I’ve been busy, but I’ve been lazier, hehe 😀 Anyway, most of you might have seen the Avatar movie, and in 3D too, probably. Wasn’t the experience amazing? I wouldn’t know, because I only got to see the 2D version ;_; Anyway, today I’m going to explain how 3D works.
Note: Though you will find instructions, this is by no means a tutorial and was never meant to be. It’s only a descriptive guide to help explain the process better.
What is 3D?
3D stands for 3 Dimensions. Now what are dimensions? In the world of mathematics, physical space can be represented in up to 3 dimensions.
An example of a 1-dimensional figure would be a straight line. All measurements are limited to only one constraint: length.
A square, a triangle or anything you can draw on a paper is 2-dimensional, meaning those figures can be represented with the help of length and width.
Now, a cube, a cone, a pyramid, a pizza, the Taj Mahal, even you, are 3-dimensional. These objects can be represented in 3 dimensions namely length, width and depth.
Most of what you see in a book, on the computer screen and in the movies is 2D. Sure, you can make out the depth of the objects shown on the screen, but that’s because your mind simply concludes that there’s depth, based on what it already knows, even though it doesn’t feel the depth.
What is depth?
Now how does your mind perceive “depth”? Well, it’s simple. When you view something with both your eyes, what do you see? You see just one picture, or that’s what you think. In reality, you see two different pictures, one with each eye. Try it out, look at an object by closing your eyes alternately. You’ll realize that you’re seeing the object from two slightly different angles. This, ladies and gentlemen, is the key to 3D. When your eyes send their signals to the brain, it merges them together and calculates the depth in the image.
Now we know that the brain processes two separate images into one to get the sense of depth. How is this knowledge used to replicate depth through 2D media (computer screen for example)? Let’s explore that.
We have one main point to take away from the previous explanation: depth can only be simulated by feeding the brain two different views of the same scene. This is the reason we don’t feel depth when we watch something on the computer screen: both our eyes see the same image.
To simulate the sense of depth one has to find a way to view two different images at the same time through different eyes. Let’s discuss the process with a 3D picture, because I actually made a few B)
So my aim is to make this scene 3D:
I take two pictures from slightly different angles. Each picture is how each of my eye sees it separately:
Now I superimpose (combine) them:
But when I look at this pic, I can see both the views with both the eyes. How do I make it so that one image reaches one eye and the other image reaches the other eye separately? The answer is that I use some form of filtering.
One simple thing I can do is, I use colour filtering. It means that I will colourize each picture with a different colour like this:
Now I’ll superimpose them again:
OK, now the pic is ready. How do I see the pic? with these (or similar):
Notice the colours. The left frame (from our point of view) has a red filter and the right frame has a cyan filter (have you noticed that they’re contrast colours?). Now when I look at the pic with these glasses on, my left eye will only see the red-colourized part of the pic and my right eye will only see the cyan-colourized part; mission accomplished! I get to enjoy the depth in the picture!
You can make a crude version of these “glasses”. You’ll need:
Red and cyan sketch pens
A colourless transparent sheet of paper or plastic (like a CD jewel case)
Just take your transparent material and colour them with the sketch pens, and you’re done 😀 Of course, you might not find the exact shade of colours, so you might still see double-images when you view the pic, but you will feel some depth.
This is how 3D movies are made. The movie is shot with two cameras with filters covering the lenses. They combine the two reels and publish the movie. You are given “3D glasses” which are nothing but filters, which separate the two images projected on the screen and send them to the respective eyes.
Of course, there’s another more refined form of filtering than the red-cyan / yellow-blue filters: the polarized lens filtering. These glasses have dark lenses and kinda feel like shades. These type of glasses are what you probably used when watching a 3D movie, not the old coloured ones. The advantage is obvious: no colour distortion. When you use coloured filtering, a lot of colour detail is lost, but with polarized lenses, you get the full spectrum. Polarized lenses are basically filters too and they involve some concepts of optics which I will not be explaining in this post.
Check out the pictures in this page to get a good idea of how 3D movies work. (Maybe it’s explained better there than here ;_;)
There are also other methods to simulate depth (like Chromadepth). Hopefully, someone will come up with a solution which lets us enjoy 3D in everyday television and computing 😀
nVidia 3D Vision
nVidia has come up with a wonderful technology called nVidia 3D Vision. The concept is basically the same, but it applies it to 3D games and the result is amazing. Now that’s what I call innovation! Well, not exactly, it’s pretty obvious once you see it, but it’s about time someone implemented it!
Note that nVidia 3D vision has two forms: nVidia 3D Vision and nVidia 3D Vision Discover. 3D Vision Discover just lets us experience 3D, but in a crude way (using red-cyan glasses). The real thing uses shutter glasses and requires a 120Hz LCD monitor. Though, I’ve come across posts that claim it’s not a strict requirement. I enjoy my games using the red-cyan glasses since I don’t have an LCD monitor (let alone a 120Hz one!). There’s a rather annoying limitation: 3D vision only works in Windows Vista and above, not in XP. There might be some mods out there which enable 3D vision in XP, but I haven’t found them. If you know, drop a comment and I’ll add it here 🙂
If you happen to make or acquire 3D glasses but the colours don’t match with 3D vision defaults, you will still see double-images and it kind of hurts your eyes. I did a search in Google and found this registry hack which allows you to define the anaglyph colours. Here’s what you do. Open notepad and paste the following into the document:
to represent your desired colours in hex code. Don’t get confused if you don’t know what that is. Head over to this site and you can generate the hex codes for any colour. Of course, there are many other sites like this, just use google 🙂
After you’re done, save the file as “3dVision_color_mod.reg”. Run the file and accept the prompt, you’re done. If you didn’t backup the original colour codes, you can use the text above, it’s the default setting.
If you ever acquire a set of 3D glasses, just do a google image search for “3D image” and you’ll get loads of fun pics to look at. Always remember that Google and Wikipedia are your friends (here’s the Wiki page about anaglyph images). Having explained this, I now have a question to all of you: can a person with only one eye experience simulated 3D? Rack your brains, until my next post >:)
That’s it for today, see you next time!
PS: Why did I use “colour” instead of “color”? Well, that’s the spelling I knew from childhood and that’s what I’m used to. It’s correct according to British English. I do use “color”, but only when I’m coding 😛
I bought it recently (7-Jan-2010), as I mentioned in my other post. I did some research as I did with my graphics card (though not that much, I really went all out then) and the reviews and reception seemed to be very good. My other choice was the Saitek Cyborg Rumble Pad and I still have a feeling I would’ve liked it. In the end, I had a choice: if I got the Saitek Cyborg Rumble Pad, I would have a switchable analog/D-pad module. If I got the Xbox 360 controller, I would have the 2.5 mm earphone jack. I decided to go with Saitek Cyborg but when I went to the market, it was nowhere to be found. After much effort, I bought the Xbox 360 controller for a very good deal and saved Rs.450 (about 9 USD).
I followed the instructions and plugged in the gamepad after installing the latest drivers from the website (CD had v1.2, I downloaded v1.3). It worked without a hitch, as expected. The top-left quadrant of the “Ring of Light” (the green glowing circle at the center) lights up whenever I plug it in, indicating that I’m player 1 (I’m the only “player” connected to the PC, I don’t use Xbox Live for any games). I like it a lot, as I happen to be a fanatic of things that glow 😉 The most superior aspect about the controller is it’s comfort, it’s a delight to the hands. I didn’t really take it seriously when all the reviews praised this fact but when I held it for the first time, I knew exactly what they meant. After using a cheap make of a PS2 clone controller for 3 years, I just had to smile. The weight is much better on my hands. It’s very light compared to my old controller, but it’s not too light either. I can feel I’m actually holding something and that’s the way I like it. I also love the colourful buttons A, B, X and Y. They bring a lot of life, along with the ring of light. Speaking of the ring of light, upon pressing the Guide button (the large X button inside the ring of light), a small indicator comes up on the screen indicating the status of the controller and the number of players. I’m posting through Ubuntu right now and I didn’t get a screenshot, I’ll update the post when (and if) I get one. The indicator doesn’t really do anything and it’s kinda vain, but hey, the Guide button does something 🙂 Oh, did I mention, the wire is a whopping 3 meters long! It also has a safety feature, a plug-like thing which gets separated first when the wire is pulled, protecting the ends of the wire. All of this makes the wire a little heavy, but it’s no big deal.
As for complaints, I do have a few more than I hoped. First, the lack of customizability with the default drivers is really disappointing, especially to a tweaker at heart like me. There are other drivers out there which promise a lot (really a lot), but they’re not properly compatible with Windows 7 yet, so I held back. Of course, I use the latest free version of Xpadder, so I do have some control over useful aspects like keyboard and mouse mapping and finer aspects like the dead zone settings for the analog sticks and triggers. Next, as much as I like the glowing ring of light, I dislike only a quarter of it glowing. I never connect to Xbox Live and I don’t see myself doing it in the near or far future, so I’d rather have the whole ring glowing. With only a quarter glowing, I feel like the poor old LED’s gonna pop out sooner than the others (and me being a little obsessive compulsive, the thought of a quarter of light missing is unnerving). Next, the Start button is used to pause majority of games and it’s hard to reach. Well, not exactly, it’s placed in perfect vicinity to the A, B, X, Y buttons, but the right analog stick comes in the way. Let me show you what I mean:
It might not look like much in the picture, but during gameplay, it’s a bit annoying. There’s another thing I didn’t see coming, and it has to do with the left analog stick. Remember the Saitek Cyborg Rumble Gamepad which had a switchable analog/D-pad module? I thought it was just a fancy feature, but now I find it rather useful. Sure, playing many games feels absolutely great with the analog stick, but I’m a gamepad kinda guy, I play most of the games with a gamepad when I can whether the game supports it or not (courtesy, Xpadder). I also happen to be a fan of old school RPGs and the analog seriously undermines gameplay. Even with customized deadzones, it just doesn’t feel right. I would use the D-pad, if it were a little more comfortable, but Xbox games use it as an accessory rather than for real directional control, and it’s only one large chunk of plastic. Moving it around doesn’t feel comfortable. In this aspect, my old gamepad takes the cake. Since it’s a PS2 design, it has the D-pad for main directional control and it has 4 separate buttons for each direction, which I really miss with the new gamepad. Finally, I really dislike the fact that the Guide button does nothing useful. In the Saitek gamepad, it’s used to switch between “normal” and “FPS” configurations, which is pretty slick. I wanted something like that, but alas, it’s not possible without the XBCD drivers I mentioned earlier.
Final verdict: despite the problems, I’m thoroughly enjoying it! For instance, playing H.A.W.X on it is just divine! I’m soon going to get myself a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter for plugging in my earphones and it’ll be all the more enjoyable.
And now, behold! Some pics for thine eyes!
The 2.5 mm headset jack. Meant for a Microsoft headset specifically made for the Xbox 360, but it’ll detect pretty much anything as a USB device:
Fits pretty well in my hand:
And a pic I wish I’d taken under better lighting and focal settings: